Simone Rocha's Fall Winter 2024 Collection Finds Beauty in Melancholy and Grief

Simone Rocha’s Fall Winter 2024 show — presented on February 18 — marked the third and final installment of a three-part story. The account started with “The Dress Rehearsal,” the Irish designer’s Spring Summer 2024 runway, which prefaced her couture debut. “The Procession,” Rocha’s guest-designed collection for Jean Paul Gaultier and her first foray into couture, followed as a sequel chapter earlier this year. Rocha’s narrative came to an end at FW24 London Fashion Week with “The Wake,” a grief and melancholy-fueled collection. For the occasion, Rocha returned to the Priory Church of St Bartholomew the Great, a medieval construction where she previously presented her SS22 show.

Finding Power in Grief

While Rocha researched for her Jean Paul Gaultier collection, the designer looked into Queen Victoria’s mourning dress — the clothing that Victoria turned into her uniform after the death of her husband, Albert. Simultaneously, Rocha looked back into Gaultier’s archives — known as the “coffins” — and tried to find a common thread connecting the French designer’s sensual avant-garde pieces and the Victorian mourning dress. She soon realized that boning and structure tied them both together.

And so, guided by Victorian codes and modern-day corsetry, Rocha visually interpreted melancholy and grief in a collection that explores what dressing with a sense of longing entails.

*Photo courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Photography by Cris Fragkou.*

Sporty Meets Prep

The fascination for boning and corsetry was evident on the runway, where models walked down body-hugging corset tops, dresses and long coats. Such strong visual elements were balanced out with delicate sheer textiles, ribbon details, and intricate embellishments. In an interesting combination of visual codes, Rocha paired a lace-up corset-style skirt with a loose long-sleeve polo and matching hood. This formula of mixing athletic wear with corsetry was applied in variations of colors and lengths throughout the show, creating an edgy feminine look that definitely resonates with young fashion enthusiasts.

Mixing Romance with Structure

Of course, it’s not a Simone Rocha show without her signature whimsical dresses. Despite the somber theme inspiring the collection, the designer embraced hyper-femininity and romanticism with fuzzy detailing, lace-up elements applied on structured satin and even a mix of fur appliques with sheer. Among the many fantastical dresses sent down the runway, a highlight was Rocha’s take on the nude dress — a transparent white gown with puffy sleeves and lace-up straps. The sheer material allowed Rocha to showcase the complexity of her designs, leaving layering, cuts, and boning visible.

And just like any other season, Rocha knew exactly how to dress her muse to make her feel like royalty. Undeterred by the use of traditional mourning colors such as black and navy, the designer bestowed the looks with grandeur via puffy volumes, satin fabrics and a touch of sparkle.

Melancholy From Head to Toe

Tying the inspirations together, hair and makeup channeled elements from the Victorian era. Models sported flat, middle-parted hair slicked into austere hair buns and the glam, except for the flower motifs painted atop the brows, remained minimal.

As for the accessories, Rocha tapped into her most playful side, reintroducing the Church Grim — a guardian spirit in the English and Nordic folk tradition — as a plushie-slash-clutch that accompanied several models as they walked the runway. There were also knitted balaclavas, large ribbon earrings and Rocha’s classic assortment of footwear, ranging from fuzzy ballerinas and sturdy loafers to bejeweled clogs.

Keep scrolling to see the highlights of Simone Rocha’s “The Wake” collection.