In recent years, China has outgrown its status as a market hub for luxury brands, becoming an incubator for young fashion talent. Brands like SHUSHU/TONG and Mark Gong are making waves internationally with their approach to feminine dressing, while names like Xuehu Zhang, and Qiqi Yuan are pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion with conceptual and avant-garde design proposals.
Want to start getting familiar with the rising stars of the industry? Read on to discover the fresh Chinese talents you need to take note of.
BUERLANGMA
Founded by designer Qiqi Yuan and model Yuanbo Chao, BUERLANGMA is one of the fashion scene’s most promising Chinese brands. Despite being a relatively new name in the industry, BUERLANGMA is stirring buzz for unapologetically exploring avant-garde territories with unconventional forms. The brand’s forte is creating looks that will turn heads, whether it’s through extravagant volumes, out-of-the-box prints, or bold hardware detailing. Rooted in individuality and diversity, BUERLANGMA’s irreplicable designs and captivating storytelling have captured the attention of media powerhouses and celebrities alike — so far, more than 200 celebrities have sported the brand’s creations since 2020!
MARRKNULL
Fueled by Chinese tradition and culture, MARRKNULL is a brand founded by duo Tom Shi and Mark Wang. The progressive clothing brand blends past and present in fashion-forward pieces that showcase a new take on Chinese culture. With consistency in silhouettes and materials — the brand often resorts to asymmetry play, cut-outs and bold materials — MARRKNULL has quickly developed a distinctive aesthetic and broken through pre-conceptions of Chinese fashion. The brand has also become a favorite among the cool girls in the fashion scene, including Halsey, Julia Fox, and Lisa and Rosé of BLACKPINK.
Xuehu Zhang
Antwerp’s Fashion Department graduate Xuehu Zhang is a rising young talent crafting a unique, distinct style. In his “SPEAK, SPEAK TO ME” collection, the designer revealed a witty play on geometrics and textures, inspired by early-age video game aesthetics. “In my collection, I’m always trying to focus on finding a point between the virtual world and reality; something seems simple and recognizable, but from another perspective, it suddenly becomes extremely strange. it’s more about a gap between surrealism and realism,” he tells EnVi about his work.
By mixing intricate detailing, lines, and tiles with clean sleek fabrics, Zhang creates a glitch-like illusion that bestows his clothing with a surrealist element. His understanding of lines, geometry, and color theory is what makes his creations both fashionable and fascinating. Boasting impressive knowledge and craftsmanship, as well as an idiosyncratic approach to fashion, Zhang is set for a bright future.
Cynthia & Xiao
Lighthearted, fun, and vibrant are words to describe Cynthia & Xiao’s body of work. Specializing in knitwear and casual wear, the brand focuses on creating everyday staples that balance comfort and vivacity. A key point consistently seen in Cynthia & Xiao’s products is the fusion of graphic design and fashion. The brand originally started to narrow down on knitwear when they committed to minimizing waste. However, as they successfully took on this genre of clothing, the knitwear specialization has become their signature. In efforts to continuously lessen fashion waste, Cynthia Mak and Xiao Xiao operate their brand by releasing small-scale collections that don’t follow the traditional fashion calendar.
Mark Gong
Founded in 2018, Mark Gong started his namesake label upon graduating from the Parsons School of Design. His work often explores the connection between nature, womanhood, and the perception of women in society. In 2020, the designer released a collection that found inspiration in camping attire, turning utilitarian elements into chic statements. In 2023, he melded Americana influences with the femme fatale aesthetic and explored 3D printing techniques. Most recently, the designer went viral for his office-themed runway, where he embraced the quirkiness of corporate attire and reinterpreted it with an edgy and sultry style. Despite constantly exploring a wide array of themes, Gong ensures that his designs remain wearable and resonate with buyers.
SHUSHU/TONG
SHUSHU/TONG has been one of the most popular Chinese brands in recent years. With a hyper-feminine aesthetic that emerged ahead of the coquette and girl-core boom, SHUSHU/TONG arrived on the scene at perfect timing. The brand was founded by Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang back in 2015 and has found femininity as the starting point of several collections. Despite exploring different themes every season, the brand remains consistent in presenting unapologetic femininity and making girly dressing a tool for empowerment.
In the past years, China’s fashion scene has significantly grown, fostering emerging talent and expanding beyond its territorial borders. As young talent continues to grow globally and a new generation reinvents the country’s fashion landscape, these are just some names that are set to take the forefront of this new wave of Chinese designers.
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