London Fashion Week (LFW) is never confined when it comes to creativity, and for SS27, all eyes were on Flair Fashion. The London-based platform strives to build an ecosystem of designers and brands at the forefront of innovation in design, sustainability, and technology. Following their showcase in February, Flair Fashion returned to LFW with a striking showcase of eight emerging designers redefining the boundaries of contemporary fashion. Situated in the heart of Westminster, the tone was set at One Great George Street on September 19, with guests clamoring into a painterly golden hall with a drop-down opulent chandelier. From childlike silhouettes to romantic renaissance influences, fashion became art.
Childhood Imagination at Qaurez
Designer Cléo Quarez debuted her first collection at Flair, drawing on imagination, play, and sanctuary. Rather than positioning fashion as a conventional brand, Quarez revisited childhood memories to evoke catharsis, comfort, reality, and fantasy.
The looks were characterized by exaggerated proportions and almost absurdist forms, alongside chaotic layering of patterns — as if a child had rummaged through their mother’s closet. Quarez wrote to EnVi that she sought to “recreate the playfulness of a child playing dress-up,” using clothing to experiment with identity. Accompanying accessories heightened this sense of fantasy, from towering wigs to mesh headpieces. Beyond their whimsy, the exaggerated forms also offer a sense of protection, inviting the wearer to hide or completely transform.
Keep up to date with Quarez’s work on their Instagram.
A Vintage Wonderland by Berth
Headed by Afa Tsang, Berth lends a modern-vintage edge to their designs. Tsang shared with EnVi that younger generations resonate with vintage style because “it carries the marks of time, classic tailoring, and a unique soul.” Berth aims to reimagine these classic aesthetics in a contemporary context, framing vintage clothing as a “timeless form of self-expression in today’s fast-paced world.”
Berth’s SS27 collection, “Gathering of Dreams,” came to Flair with the free-spirited energy of the 1970s hippie and bohemian movement, channeling a sense of individuality, spontaneity, and liberation. The looks featured intricate layers that came together in unexpected silhouettes, while textures took center stage — from rippling fringes and ruffled collars to sheer lace and quilted fabrics. Western-inspired hats and patterned scarves leaned into the bohemian aesthetic while motifs such as dream-catchers, florals, and embroidery softened the rambunctious elements, grounding the looks while evoking a sense of dreamy nostalgia.
Discover all things Berth on their website and their official Instagram.
Where Technology meets Fashion: VELESPACE and The Kong Is Dead
VELESPACE and The Kong Is Dead unite expressive technology and post-streetwear, challenging conventional ideas of fashion through their collections “SPHERE 01” and “Wounds in Blue.”
VELESPACE’s Tech Charm takes the traditional charm accessory and expands its function beyond an ornamental object, instead exploring “how technology can move beyond pure utility.” Its circulatory display incorporates both stillness and motion into the look itself, adding another layer of movement and contrast as the wearer shifts position. As the brand shared with EnVi, “[Technology] can become part of a person’s visual language, shaped as much by how it is worn as by what it can do.”
Led by designer Adam Raillard, The Kong Is Dead draws inspiration from Italian artist Lucio Fontana and his radical approach of slashing through canvases, translating that technique onto fabric. This approach can be seen in one look, where tears across a navy hoodie and jeans reveal flashes of red fabric underneath. “Wounds in Blue” embraces this sense of incompletion: “Nothing here is finished in the traditional sense, every piece stays slightly open.”
Delve into the technological world of VELESPACE on their website and Instagram.
The Kong Is Dead can be discovered through their website and Instagram.
A Glorious Soireé with Trashy Planets
Founded by designer and showgirl Bambi Blue, Trashy Planets merges couture with costume to create unapologetically theatrical pieces. Their SS27 collection, “Ashes To Ashes,” brought this theatricality to the Flair runway, drawing from ancient royalty, mythology, and symbolic imagery to envision a world where beauty is born from destruction.
Blue approaches fashion as a form of storytelling, bringing otherworldly characters to life through designs that center the wearer. Her designs invite wearers in “imagining the fantasy version of themselves that the piece can allow them to step into.” In developing this collection, she envisioned each look like she was “casting the characters of a story and then dressing them into existence,” as she reflected with EnVi via email. This approach is evident throughout the collection, with each look embodying a distinct character, including Anne Boleyn, catacombs, swans, and showgirls (a nod to Blue’s background).
Rich silks, sequined armor, and elaborate headpieces that heighten each look’s opulence. The collection culminated in “Rise of the Phoenix,” a sculptural raspberry-feathered gown trimmed with orange, pink, and gold plumage, complete with a dramatic off-the-shoulder silhouette and towering headdress. Evoking a bird in flight, the final look symbolized both an ending and rebirth, shedding old feathers for renewed flight.
Dive into the fantastical world of Trashy Planets on their official Instagram.
UNE ENFANT’s “Once, Ahead”
Between London and Hangzhou, Womenswear brand UNE ENFANT unveiled their sophomore collection “Once, Ahead,” which follows their debut in February. Defined by early 2000s silhouettes and charm, the collection brings to life the Y2K era’s optimistic and futuristic vision through a contemporary lens. Classic preppy fashion was sporty and chic, where a-line styles came in the form of a short-hemmed pleated mini skirt and polo shirts had a peter-pan collar flair. With the accessories to match, the collection was paired with statement stocks, ballet flats, and a Y2K favorite — the sporty headband. Embracing the teal that has permeated most of the season, the collection’s soft and vibrant color palette of turquoise, pastel blue, and midnight navy balances the idea of memory and imagination that sits at the heart of the label.
Duo founders Nuofan Lyu and Wei Li view their brand as a grounding source of thoughtful design, and hope for their brand to evolve naturally over time. “I hope UNE ENFANT can become more precise rather than more complex from season to season,” Lyu and Li told EnVi via email. “Over time, I hope these collections can build a coherent and complete world of their own, with a sense of care for people and the world around us. I don’t think growth always needs to come from constant change.”
Between a sexy, slinky cut-out capri set and a cinched brown leather bomber, UNE ENFANT’s “Once, Ahead” captured the sense of imagination of the future while remaining nostalgic and classic.
Discover “Once, Ahead” and the world of UNE ENFANT on Instagram and on their website.
A Painterly Golden Sunset by GASHANI
Hailing from Kosovo, couture house GASHANI Couture brought timeless elegance to the Flair Ignite Runway, with nature at the origins of its SS27 collection. Titled “The Golden Hour,” the collection saw billowing floor-length dresses cascaded across the runway. Combined with nods to a beautiful sunset on a warm summer’s day, butterfly structural silhouettes and motifs permeated the collection. Full of movement yet immaculate in structure, the soft and sensual color palette of peacock blue, golden yellow, and forest green captured a sense of serenity. Structurally, the looks combine craftsmanship with intentional detail — not only exploring lightness through material, but accentuating natural forms. Accents bounced from corsetry, fringing, to feathers and embellishment, with flattering strapless bodices and couture trains to match.
“Nature is infinite. I could look at the same sunset a thousand times and experience it differently each time. Nature never repeats itself, and neither does Gashani,” explained Tao Gashani via email.
Explore the world of GASHANI at gashani.com and on their Instagram.
Midnight Magic at El Khemie
Helmed by Singaporean architect Kassandra, emerging fashion laboratory El Khemie transforms the intensity of Singapore’s corporate culture into a space for experimentation, wonder, and escape. The collection “Department of Nocturnal Affairs” unfolds across six looks inspired by Singaporean rituals of coffee and tea. Reflected in a crisp color palette of delight, from midnight purples and blues to earth-toned forest green, form and material is not only highlighted but transformed, bouncing from tailored blazer jackets with hints of ruffle tulle accents and delicate embellishment finishes. Silhouettes are bold yet relaxed, and traditional suiting elements are reimagined with a twist.
Accessories make a statement too — clean bowl hats and animated ties create a mood of exploration and discovery.
Supported by the Design Singapore Council, El Khemie’s collection served as more than a debut at London Fashion Week; it specifically brought local Singaporean creativity to the global stage. As Kassandra reflected to EnVi via email, “Every designer tells a unique story on the Flair runway. For me, I want to offer an intimate glimpse of Singapore beyond the postcard skyline — not just a city that works, but a city full of possibility when we dare to dream beyond the fluorescent lights.”
El Kemie’s work is available on their website and on their official Instagram.
PSY LAU: Modern Streetwear with a Twist
It’s never a Flair Ignite Collective Runway without Berlin-based Hong Kong streetwear brand PSY LAU. With a continued presence at London Fashion Week, the SS27 collection, “The Art of Letting Go,” draws its deepest inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of 斷捨離: the art of decluttering, letting go, and reclaiming one’s space. Whether jackets and blazers tailored to a tee or avant-garde experimenting with fabric, color, and shape, the collection underscored the brand’s sense of underground emerging innovation that defines the energy present at London Fashion Week.
“The Art of Letting Go” centers the mood of the collection, heightening the experimental streetwear that PSY LAU is known for. A little hint of maximalism here and there, form is manipulated through a blazer coord set extravagant with its double padded shoulders and voluminous pencil skirt. The PSY LAU finish? Phenomenal beadwork and a set of nonchalant black sunnies and headphones to match.
PSY LAU creates a community of expression and innovation, while placing importance on strong branding. “Today, Psy Lau has evolved. Driven by a growing celebrity following, our strategic focus has shifted toward commercial retail, aiming to make our designs accessible to a wider global audience,” PSY LAU noted to EnVi via email.
For all things PSY LAU, keep up to date on their Instagram.
The Individuality of London Fashion Week
Flair Fashion brought together distinct creative identities, with each designer proving that emerging fashion doesn’t have to fit traditional definitions. From childhood nostalgia and imaginative technology to mythological stories and corporate escape, fashion is celebrated as a space for identity, self-expression, and experimentation. With a platform like Flair Fashion at the core of democratizing the fashion industry, concept becomes creation and emerging talent is given the space, visibility and infrastructure to shape what comes next.
Credit:
Platform: @flair.fashionofficial
Photography: @rosslynphotography
Stylist: @laurenncroftt
Key MUA: @charliaverymakeup
Key Hair Stylist: @doris_designs_
PR: @dyelogpr
Craving more Fashion Week content? Check out EnVi’s coverage on Bad Binch TONGTONG’s SS27 collection for NYFW!
