Emerging heritage brand JASPER is back with its third collection, offering structure and soul at New York Fashion Week on February 12. Set within Jac’s on Bond, a bar that channels ’90s minimalism, JASPER presented its Fall Winter 2026 collection, rooted in 16th-century Persian miniature painting and equestrian imagery. The designs compelled continuous visual movement; bursts of high-contrast color blocking and textural juxtapositions prevented the eye from resting. The founder and creative director, Kooshan Dunn, shared via email insights about how this collection provided layered storytelling and translated the beauty of controlled tension.
Opposing Movement
This collection is anchored in 16th-century Persian miniature painting, a visual language first introduced in previous collections and continues to evolve with JASPER.
Kooshan was drawn to how the miniatures “balance[d] grounded golds and browns with sudden bursts of ultramarine, violet, crimson, and orange, where color was rare and used with purpose to mark significance and reverence.” The paintings are elaborate, hold movement, and offer layered storytelling.
In many miniatures, horses provide movement in various directions within the same composition. Thus, the horse was the main symbol in this collection, representing power, nobility, and control, along with an emphasis on opposing motion.
The idea of opposing movement informed the collection’s approach to design and seasonality. While the previous collection explored this idea more openly, this season’s collection provides more restraint and clarity through “cleaner lines, tighter silhouettes, and a stronger focus on layering across seasons rather than designing for a single moment.” The visual and textural contrasts in the designs and seasonality promote dialogue and a deeper sense of intimacy. Bursts of bold red and light blue contrast with the black and browns, faux fur meets silk, sheer fabrics meet covered silhouettes, and decorative surfaces of beadwork and sequins are balanced with clean construction.
An Ode to the Strength of Women
JASPER is informed by Kooshan’s family history. Growing up with images of ’70s Iranian fashion, in which women dressed with bold elegance and agency, it shaped his understanding of style as a form of expression and resilience. “This collection is an ode to that strength. Where miniature paintings often centered men riding horses, I wanted these garments to shift the focus toward women — their autonomy, complexity, and emotional depth.”
Kooshan underscored that the JASPER woman is “culturally curious and emotionally present.” And this collection celebrated “the quiet power of women shaping their own narratives through what they wear.”
Beauty in Controlled Tension
Controlled tension was the central idea of this collection. “Visually, I wanted the presentation to feel intimate but charged, as if each look carried its own narrative while still belonging to a larger rhythm.” This collection doesn’t exaggerate power, but displays strength through design precision, intentional detail, and contours. His goal was to translate heritage into something lived-in and modern. He further noted that these garments “aren’t nostalgic recreations or ethnic costumes; they’re an invitation to see heritage as something evolving and personal.”
Soft Armor
Appliqué embroidery and the idea of soft armor are the most representative of JASPER right now. The soft armor is intended to provide emotional structure, not as a form of defense nor purely aesthetic. The ornamental surfaces and floral embroidery, especially on the sheer tops and skirts, are references to equestrian dress and Persian miniatures. They help create a sense of elegance that doesn’t feel distant or rigid.
Building a New Kind of Heritage Brand
Kooshan is passionate about continuing to build a deeply personal yet culturally expansive heritage brand. He’s looking forward to deepening the craftsmanship and exploring collaborations, new materials, and different presentation styles that are intimate and bring the unexpected. Additionally, he’s excited by the growing community engagement around JASPER. With the intentions of expressing identity, memory, and imagination, the future of JASPER is open, layered, enduring, and modern.
Interested in more NYFW content and emerging designers? Check out EnVi’s exclusive New York Fashion Week mini issue here.
