Kim Shui welcomed guests to celebrate the brandโ€™s tenth year at the Eternity Yacht at Pier 17 in New York City this past February 15th. Staged between the Manhattan skyline and the Hudson River, EnVi was front and center for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection.  

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Calling Everyone on Board! 

โ€œMovement remained central to the staging. The vessel itself became a contemporary counterpart to the horse, a symbol of mobility through which the garments unfolded in real time,โ€ read the show notes of the Fall/Winter 2026 collection. Kim Shui drew inspiration for the collection from the migratory story of Mongolia โ€“ a story of how, in Mongolian culture, pastoral nomadism is practiced, migrating season to season to keep a sustainable lifestyle and a connection to the land. The story holds/retains the symbolism the collection aims to focus on: moment and adaptability. Based on this, movement and adaptation transform into one-of-a-kind runway pieces.

The collection felt like an ode to who Kim Shui is and to her craftsmanship over the years. From the start of her career, Shui has taken pride in representing her heritage through her collections. In her Fall/Winter 2018 collection, she focused on wrapped tops and puffer fabrics, accented with fur and knee-high boots. Her Spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection continued the narrative with her upbringing in Italy, mixing mud silks with corsets and bralettes, and the collection still felt true to her evolving craftsmanship. 

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This Fall/Winter 2026 collection felt like both a continuation and a more developed expression of the designerโ€™s identity, showing how her vision (along with its core concepts) has evolved.

Symbolism between the past and present  

The collection centered on heritage as an active, evolving practice rather than something confined to the past. Some garments in the show were constructed using traditional Chinese knotting, popular during the Tang Dynasty, in which a single cord is woven into symmetrical three-dimensional forms. Shui reimagined this technique through the use of tensioned cord and intricate handwork.

Among the fashionable guests and the 70s Hollywood glam vibe inside the venue, the collection featured 41 looks, a live guzheng performance by Nico Huzella, and styles that were hot enough to melt the ice outside. From fur in various colorways to thick velvet and leather, the first looks of the collection felt more insulated and substantial in material. There was a sensuality to each piece that only Kim Shui could achieve โ€” from the opening brown fur and green jacquard matching set to the velvet ensembles with oversized blazers and pankou knots.

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The collection moved steadily along the journey Shui invited the audience to experience. The second half featured more animal prints, red and green skirts, velvet matching suits, and a few white pieces that incorporated corsets with traditional Chinese knotting and a wrap-style coat. Offering a striking contrast between the beginning and the end, the Fall/Winter 2026 collection revealed exactly what city girls will be wearing next season.

Details Matter

In any runway show, the details are what make a collection unique and true to the brandโ€™s identity. At Kim Shui, these details were not only present in the clothing but also in the venue and the people behind the show. With production led by Cardenas Production and casting handled by Ella Cepeda, the team behind the scenes brought the show to life while also contributing to the story of the community that Kim Shui welcomes with every show and garment.

Spotlight moments of the collection included the color red. True to Kim Shuiโ€™s signature colorway and Lunar New Year traditions, red appeared prominently on the runway, from tights and pointy heels to dresses and latex skirts. The color, combined with reinterpretations of traditional Chinese jackets, offered a fresh way to express the power and luck that the audience likely felt while experiencing the collection.

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The highlight of the night was the traditional Chinese knotting and its influence throughout the garments. In Chinese culture, the knots are deeply rooted cultural symbols and are often seen as representing luck, longevity, and unity, which perfectly reflects the inspiration behind the collection. Incorporating different styles and renditions of the knots into the garments, the show notes stated, โ€œEach knot acted as both connector and framework, binding craft tradition, cultural memory, and the human hand into a unified system.โ€

Animal prints were another standout moment of the collection, showcased through a range of fabrics that brought tiger-print garments to life. A handful of looks carried the print, proving that the trend is here to stay โ€” from matching sets that looked silky and comfortable for evening wear, to short dresses in the same print but rendered in thicker fabrics.The collection was further expanded with leopard and cheetah print sets creating a cohesive yet fierce duo.

Photo courtesy of Niamh Murphy

Behind The Scenes 

While the collection itself comes to life on the runway,ย  the show wouldnโ€™t be complete without the incredible teams behind makeup and hair. Backstage, EnVi caught glimpses of the models getting ready, with Romero Jennings leading the makeup team. Inspired by cool tones, high blush placements, and freezing temperatures, the looks were described as โ€œFrostbitten Mongolian empress; Icy and romantic with tear-stained blush.โ€ Romero worked with MAC for Shuiโ€™s Fall/Winter 2026 collection to create sexy, icy runway looks with smudged liner and white-toned eyeshadows, bringing to life the essence of Kim Shuiโ€™s vision.

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And of course, every makeup look deserves the perfect hairstyle to complement. John Novotny and the Cutler Salon brought the styles to life using coloring, wigs, and plenty of hairspray. Side bangs, ring buns, and blowout fantasy hair gave a glimpse of the boat-party energy aboard the Eternity Yacht.

A pioneer in a scene where she has only grown and expanded over the past 10 years, Kim Shui continues to showcase her heritage and influence newer generations who want to follow in her footsteps. Concentrating on the fluidity and intention of movement through storytelling and rendition of the past as a way to move forward, the collection was the perfect way to close Sunday Nightโ€™s fashion week activities. As we eagerly await the September season, we look forward to seeing what Kim Shui will present next and who will soon be wearing her new Fall/Winter collection on the red carpet.

Interested in more NYFW content and emerging designers? Check out EnViโ€™s exclusive New York Fashion Week mini issue.

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