What You Missed At Spring Summer 2024 Copenhagen Fashion Week
Spring Summer 2024 Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) took place between August 7 and August 11. The event, which spotlights Scandi creatives, brought innovation and environmentally-friendly practices to the runway. Showcasing the best of the Nordic fashion scene, this edition featured the work of well-loved Scandi brands, as well as emerging names in the fashion industry. Read on to discover the highlights of the highly-awaited CPHFW.
Latimmier
Finnish designer Ervin Latimmier’s label, Latimmier, participated for the third time in CPHFW’s NEWTALENT program. The designer debuted a collection that played with male archetypes, taking outfits typically worn by corporate executives — akin to those featured in Martin Scorcese’s The Wolf of Wall Street — and shattering convention with movement-restricting swaths of fabric, asymmetrical necklines, and loose-fitting garments. Colorful mesh and deconstructed trousers toyed with masculine standards while pieces that emulated paper-shredded details introduced an element of shock. In an environment-friendly move, the collection featured 100% recycled fabrics by Coleo and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, as well as jewelry by AIDA Impact. To close the show, Latimmier’s drag persona, Anna Conda, paraded down the runway.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Nicklas Skovgaard
Copenhagen-based Nicklas Skovgaard launched his brand in 2020 and has since developed a taste for exploring both history and pop culture. A masterclass in tasteful extravagance, his SS24 collection, mottled “Collection 07,” drew inspiration from the relationship between Danish painter Gerda Wegener and her wife Lili Elbe. The line furthered Skovgaard’s track record of producing typically playful silhouettes paired with unexpected texture. From velvet and lace to sequins and metallic fabrics, the awe-inspiring presentation was filled with bold textile choices. Key details included ostrich feather trims and belt straps on lace dresses, as well as larger-than-life buckles accessorizing an electric blue one-piece.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Kernemilk
Aptly titled “REVIVE,” Kernemilk’s SS24 collection traversed the nuances of human introspection. Focusing specifically on human growth over time, “REVIVE” found musing on nature. Denim and mesh fabrics embraced darker aspects of reality, “channeling themes of melancholy, mortality, and punk.” In contrast, undeniably bright sequins and swaths of glitter introduced a multidimensional approach to the collection. Kernemilk generally touts a timeless aesthetic but ventured into trends in its latest runway, hinting at Y2K fashion through items like leg warmers, baby tees, and low-rise waistlines.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Rolf Ekroth
With his newest collection, “Missing,” Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth meditated on the human experience. The line was infused with elements of his own life, such as the longing for his “pastel-colored youth” in the ‘90s and his parents’ memories in the 1960s. As per show notes, the collection also played with the concept of rose-tinted glasses through the intricate use of rose motifs. Spanning from the 1986 video game The Legend of Zelda to “the unassuming elegance of 1930s Scandinavian women who toiled in the fields,” the inspirations for Rolf Ekroth’s latest creations were vast. Nods to countryside workers could be spotted in the clothing’s undeniably utilitarian designs. Standout looks included ankle-length aprons, oversized hunting jackets, and a bronze chain dress made in collaboration with the jewelry brand Kalevala.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Paolina Russo
London-based label Paolina Russo made its runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week with “Monolithics,” a collection that reflected on the passage of time. Co-creative directors Evoking a variety of nostalgic themes, Alex Russo and Lucile Guilmard put a spin on Y2K surfwear trends with technical gear. Denim was a recurring material on the runway, appearing in the form of a bolero, skirt, and a series of pants, sourced through a partnership between Paolina Russo and Pizzaro, a sustainable denim laundry based in Porto. Peachy pink tones and various shades of green created a kaleidoscope of colors that complemented the collection’s classic summer pieces — an array of jersey bermudas, lycra separates, skirts, and crop tops that unmistakably belonged in a spring-summer line.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Baum Und Pferdgarten
For its SS24 show, Baum und Pferdgarten presented the city of Copenhagen from a tourist’s point of view. Mirroring summer tourism and the many new faces that explore the city every year, the collection highlighted Copenhagen’s most iconic attractions, notable spots, and historical monuments. From the city’s historic harbor — which reflects maritime life in modern Copenhagen — to the famous Little Mermaid statue, elements of city life were seamlessly imbued into the collection. Pink denim and delicate floral patterns hinted at rare, seasonal Japanese cherry blossoms, while a graffiti rendition of the brand’s name found inspiration in the work of guerilla artists.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Helmstedt
Since its inception in 2018, Emilie Helmstedt’s brand has shaped a reputation for melding creative designs and artistic expression. Building on this tradition, HELMSTEDT brought its whimsical universe to Copenhagen with an abundance of cloud motifs, colorful patterns, and playful detailing. Classic summer pieces such as a bandeau and strapless peplum tops coexisted with long-sleeved dresses and an eye-catching pink trench coat. Closing the show was an extravagant, hand-beaded quilted silk gown featuring the same cloud motif that opened the collection.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Deadwood
Stockholm-based Deadwood Studios made its runway debut with its SS24 showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Though the label is grounded in vintage roots and sustainability, its latest presentation took a 180-degree turn and tackled themes of future dystopia, drought, and desertification. Fittingly, subtle tones of sand, beige, and terracotta took over the runway, with only a few pops of color interspersed throughout. Traditionally sturdy fabrics like leather and lightweight textiles melded to shape both loose and form-fitting silhouettes. Championing sustainability, Deadwood’s SS24 collection stressed the “importance of leading fashion onto a more sustainable path” by teaming up with XV Production to upcycle garments and source deadstock fabrics.
Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Photography by James Cochrane
Copenhagen Fashion Week is one of the world’s leading Fashion Week events highlighting a roster of talented newcomers and industry veterans. The Spring Summer 2024 edition brought to life past eras, played on existing obsessions and presented potential new trends — all with a strong focus on sustainability.
While CPHFW strives to celebrate creativity, the fashion affair is also aware of the industry’s climate impact and has set environmentally-minded goals for its development. Taking an important stance, the event exhibits promising potential for the future of Fashion Weeks around the world.
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